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Moisture Meters: The Key to Successful Glue Down Vinyl Flooring Installations
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When it comes to a successful glue down vinyl flooring installation, the single most important factor is what lies beneath the surface. No matter how perfectly you cut, fit, and lay the vinyl, if the substrate is holding excess moisture, you risk adhesive failure, bubbling, cupping, and even long-term damage to the floor. That’s why using a moisture meter to test your substrate is a non-negotiable step in the process.

Why You Need to Test Moisture Levels

Cement screeds, concrete, and other substrates naturally hold water as part of their curing process. If you install vinyl too soon, the adhesive can’t bond properly, leading to costly callbacks and unhappy clients. By using a moisture meter both before you screed and again before installing glue down vinyl flooring, you’ll know whether the floor is ready to proceed—or whether additional drying time or a moisture barrier is required.

Main Types of Moisture Meters

There are two primary types of moisture meters commonly used in flooring projects:

  • Surface (Non-Invasive) Moisture Meters
    These use radio frequency or electrical impedance to measure moisture levels without damaging the surface. They’re quick, easy to use, and excellent for spot-checking large areas.
  • Invasive (Pin-Type) Moisture Meters
    These penetrate the substrate with small pins to provide highly accurate moisture readings at specific points. They do leave tiny marks, and, as the reading is hyper-localised, it requires more extensive testing across the surface to gauge overall results. Pins are not to be confused with probes, which are an accessory for some moisture meters. To use probes, holes are drilled into the concrete so that the probes can assess moisture deeper within the slab for a more accurate measure.

A professional installer will often use both types to cross-check results.

What the Measurement Indicator Means

There are four main types of measurements derived from a moisture meter and which one you get depends on your device. Getting to grips with your instrument and how to interpret a reading is critical to working smart and fast.

  • Wood Moisture Equivalent (WME)

Used by the pin-type (invasive) and some pinless meters and measures the moisture level in other materials (like screed or plaster) expressed as if they were wood. The scale is typically 0–30% WME, with 0-8% being dry, 8-15% being acceptable range for interior conditions, and upwards of that being too damp for most flooring adhesives. This reading is best for checking subfloors, timber substrates, or comparison readings on non-wood materials.

  • Carbide Method Equivalent (CM%)

Commonly used in the flooring industry, especially in Europe and South Africa, for cement screeds and concrete, and measures the moisture content of a sample compared to results from the Carbide Method (the industry gold standard). Any result under 4% CM is good to go for screeding and glue down vinyl installation. This reading is best for glue down vinyl, engineered wood, and laminate installations over concrete or screed substrates.

  • Relative Humidity (RH%)

Used by in-situ probes and advanced digital moisture meters and measures the internal relative humidity of the substrate on a scale of 0–100% RH. Less than 75% RH is considered safe for most resilient flooring, with 75–90% RH being a borderline result that may need a moisture barrier, and above 90% being too wet for installation. This reading is best for concrete slabs and large commercial projects where precise monitoring is critical.

  • Conductivity / Comparative Scales

Used by non-invasive (surface) meters and measures the electrical impedance or capacitance of the surface, giving a relative indication of moisture. The scale is usually a summary indicator such as 0-100, green–yellow–red zones, or “Dry / Damp / Wet”. It would get used to compare multiple areas to look for higher readings that signal a problem zone, and is useful for a rapid scan across large areas before more detailed testing.

In South Africa, most professional flooring installers and manufacturers refer to the Carbide Method Equivalent (CM%) scale when assessing substrate moisture levels. This method, also called the Calcium Carbide Test, is considered the most reliable for determining whether screeds and concrete slabs are dry enough for glue down vinyl flooring.

When using a digital moisture meter calibrated to CM%, you can take readings quickly on-site that correlate closely with the results of a formal carbide test. Always confirm that your readings fall within the manufacturer’s specifications before installation.

How to Use Your Moisture Meter for Accurate Results

  1. Calibrate and Check Your Device – Ensure your meter is set for the material you’re testing (e.g. concrete, screed, or wood).
  2. Test Multiple Points – Substrate moisture isn’t always uniform. Take readings across the entire area, especially near walls, corners, and expansion joints.
  3. Record Your Readings – Keep a log of all moisture readings, noting both date and location.
  4. Take Photographic Evidence – Always photograph your readings on the display of the moisture meter. This creates a reliable project record and protects both installer and client if disputes arise later.
  5. Follow Manufacturer Guidelines – Compare your results against the flooring and adhesive manufacturer’s recommended limits (e.g. CM%, relative humidity).

Why We Recommend the Tramex Encounter CMEX5

While there are many moisture meters available, many of which you can find on our website, our favourite option is the Tramex Encounter CMEX5.

The CMEX5 measures moisture content in concrete or screed without damaging the surface, so no drilling or cutting is required. This means you can test many points quickly and preserve the substrate integrity and is especially useful when you want to test before screeding or before vinyl installation. It gives quantitative moisture content readings for concrete floors/slabs (usually up to about 20 mm) using gravimetric test methods as the baseline. It also provides Carbide Method (CM) equivalent values for concrete and other cementitious flooring. This is important because many flooring/adhesive manufacturers reference CM% limits. Furthermore, it measures other factors such as comparative WME, ambient relative humidity, temperature, dew point, humidity ratio and can use plug-in RH probes (like the Hygro-i2) for in-situ relative humidity testing.

The meter reaches approximately 20 mm into the slab/screed. This gives a meaningful reading below the surface, which helps catch moisture that isn’t just superficial. Although bear in mind that you might miss moisture deeper below that layer, which could still be problematic in some installations.

It has a clear digital front-lit display (good visibility in low light), with a “Hold” function which lets you freeze the reading when visibility is difficult or when moving the meter. The spring-loaded contact pins or electrodes help ensure good contact even on slightly uneven concrete. The CMEX5 pairs via Bluetooth with the Tramex Meters App, enabling you to map, document, and share moisture test results, geo-tag readings, take photos, and save reports. This is a big plus for record keeping, quality assurance, and for showing clients or inspectors your data.

It works in accordance with ASTM F2659 (for moisture testing of concrete floor slabs). This is important for meeting expectations from manufacturers, flooring standards/guidelines, and for ensuring your readings are defensible.

The body is built to take some abuse, with durable housing, good ergonomics, and accessories available, such as handle extensions, carry pouches, and calibration check plates to make field work easier.

Protecting Your Flooring Investment

Moisture problems are one of the top reasons that glue down vinyl flooring fails. While investing in a quality moisture meter is pricey, it is a non-negotiable tool for glue down vinyl. By incorporating substrate moisture testing into your workflow, you safeguard your projects, avoid warranty issues, and give your customers peace of mind that their new floor will last for years.

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One question we get asked a lot is whether you can install glue down vinyl over tiles — whether porcelain tiles, slate tiles, or baked terracotta tiles.

The short answer is: in most cases, yes. But some tile types are easier than others, and there are important checks and balances to complete before you proceed.

Step 1: Check the Integrity of the Tiles

If tiles are not properly bonded into the substrate, they may sound hollow when tapped. This is a big red flag. Any tiles that are loose, cracked, water-damaged, or covered in residue will need to be removed before installation can continue.

Step 2: Eliminate Surface Contamination

Tiles must be free of contaminants such as dirt, waxes, oils, or sealants. These can usually be removed with a strong tile cleaner or diluted acid solution. In tougher cases, grinding may be required.

Terracotta tiles can be especially challenging, as many are sealed with linseed oil. These need to be ground back to the raw core before primers can be applied.

Step 3: Know Which Tiles Are Unsuitable

While porcelain and baked tiles are usually workable, slate tiles are a no-go. Slate has a layered natural structure, and those layers can unpredictably release over time. For this reason, slate tiles must always be removed before installing glue down vinyl.

Step 4: Apply a Slurry and Screed

Once tiles are clean and sound, a slurry primer is applied. Commonly used options include:

  • ITE Slurry – a fast-drying, paint-on system ideal when followed by ITE screed.

  • Tal Slurry – used with Tal self-levelling screeds for a reliable finish.

Self-levelling screed is essential over tiles. It evens out grout lines, fills dips, and eliminates lippage (height differences between tiles). Without it, grout lines can eventually echo through the vinyl.

Step 5: Surface Preparation for Best Adhesion

If tiles are shiny, sanding the surface lightly before applying slurry gives a better surface profile. This helps the slurry and screed mechanically lock into the surface, strengthening the overall system.

Step 6: Proceed with Installation

After preparation, the standard glue down system can be followed:

  1. Self-levelling screed

  2. Adhesive

  3. Vinyl installation

Keep in mind that screed over tiles tends to dry more slowly since moisture escapes only through the top surface. Plan your timeline accordingly.

A Word of Caution

In the South African market, many tiled floors are poorly installed. Even if only one or two tiles appear cracked, a reverb stick test often reveals widespread looseness due to expansion and contraction. In these cases, it’s best to remove all tiles. While this adds a day of work, it ensures your vinyl floor lasts for many years.

Final Thoughts

Installing glue down vinyl over tiles can save time and effort if the existing tiles are structurally sound and properly prepared. However, if there are concerns about loose or hollow tiles, removal is the safer long-term choice.

All the products you need — self-levelling compounds, adhesives, and vinyl flooring — are available on the Floor Mechanics website. If you’d like guidance before purchasing, our team is available via WhatsApp, email, or phone to help you make the right choice.

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ITESlurry | Bonding Primer

Price range: R1,012.44 through R1,893.35

LeveliTe F10 | Self-Levelling Screed

R323.53
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Wakol D 3307 | Vinyl Adhesive

Original price was: R1,162.50.Current price is: R1,069.50.

Why You REALLY Should Protect Your Floor with Protective Board After Installation
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In an ideal world, flooring is the last trade to arrive on site. Once the walls are painted, ceilings completed, cabinetry fitted, and stonework done, the floors are installed to finish the space in pristine condition. But in reality, project timelines don’t always allow for this neat sequence. When deadlines are tight or other trades still need access after the floor is installed, protecting your investment with Protective Board is non-negotiable.

Welcome to Mayhem!

This week, our team experienced firsthand why this is so critical.

We completed a beautiful installation of Finfloor’s Black Forest Plus in the Wych Elm décor, accompanied by skirtings from Supreme Mouldings. Besides a few small trim details, the project was handed over complete and spotlessly clean—showcasing this beautiful laminate floor coupled with white skirtings throughout.

The next day, our installers returned to complete those few trim details… only to walk into mayhem.

A granite tops contractor had moved in and was doing wet works directly on the new laminate floor—water pooling across the surface, granite dust ground underfoot, footprints tracked through the home. You simply can’t believe professionals could treat a customer’s site this way. Check out this video of what we discovered.

Our team took charge, booting out the contractors and rapidly attending to deep cleaning that floor with a fine-toothed comb, looking for signs of damage. Given the terrible images you will see in the video taken of the site, you would be surprised to discover that our team could not identify immediate damage. Time may yet reveal if planks were comprised, but it must be said that the choice to invest in such a super laminate floor like Black Forest Plus saved the day. With its advanced scratch resistant and superior moisture rating, this floor looks as good as the day it went down.

Should any further damage present itself, the granite contractor will be responsible for the costs. More importantly, the customer’s project timeline will be delayed at a point when completion was already urgent. We see this time and time again.

To project managers and homeowners self-managing, we plea that if you have timeline issues, and other contractors are coming onto site after your floor is in, it’s a no-brainer to plan in Protective Board immediately after installation.

Why Protective Board Is Essential

  • Shields from wet works – spills, adhesives, and grout can seep into joints and damage flooring.
  • Prevents scratching – grit and dust tracked in by other trades can act like sandpaper.
  • Absorbs impact – dropped tools and heavy equipment can dent or chip surfaces.
  • Keeps your floor clean – reduces the time and cost of final cleaning before handover.

When contractors are still working on site, Protective Board is the difference between a stress-free finish and costly repair work.

Choosing the Right Protective Board

Protective Board comes in two main strengths to suit different site conditions:

  • Heavy Duty – designed for general site protection against foot traffic, light tool work, and minor spills. Ideal for most residential and light commercial projects.
  • Xtra Heavy Duty – a thicker, more robust option for sites where wet works, heavy equipment, or high contractor activity are expected. Offers maximum peace of mind when project sequencing can’t be controlled.

Given the story above, we strongly recommend Xtra Heavy Duty when stone, cabinetry, or wet trades are still to come after floor installation. A quick tip from Protective Board – as per images above – install your outer perimeter board first and secure using the special tape. Then fill in the rest line by line, using a broom to easily apply the tape to the seams. Just walk and fix. Easy peasy!

Protect Your Investment

Your new floor is a major investment—both financially and emotionally. Protecting it with the right Protective Board ensures that it stays flawless from installation through to final handover, no matter what other contractors may be doing around it.

Don’t let someone else’s negligence undo the time, money, and care you’ve put into your project. Build Protective Board into your project plan from the start.

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Protective Board Xtra Heavy Duty +Tape | Floor Protection

R28.70 per m2
Protective Board XTRA (WET RESISTANT) is used for protecting most types of floors and surfaces including wooden floors, vinyl floors, porcelain and ceramic tiled floors and even polished concrete and epoxy floors. The XTRA layer of film offers more durability from constant foot traffic, tools and machinery movement and also features the spill barrier which prevents […]

Wych Elm Laminate Flooring | Finfloor Black Forest Plus

Original price was: R660.02.Current price is: R632.50. sq m
The Black Forest Plus Laminate Floor range is the thickest, widest and longest laminate floor available in the market. The durable “Fit for use AC5/W33 graded” Black Forest Plus is the perfect choice for your commercial installation or for high trafficked areas. The 12mm thick plank makes the floor quieter under foot and more dimensionally […]
Moisture Problems in Your Glue Down Vinyl Flooring Project? How to Choose the Right Moisture Barrier Solution
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When it comes to installing glue down vinyl flooring, one of the most critical yet often overlooked steps is checking the moisture levels in your substrate. Whether you’re working on a concrete slab or a screeded surface, excess moisture can cause adhesive failure, warping, bubbling, and a shortened floors lifespan.

That’s why understanding your site’s environment to see if you do need a moisture barrier is essential whenever you’re laying glue down vinyl flooring. By properly testing and treating your substrate, you protect your investment and ensure a flawless installation. If ever in doubt, use a moisture barrier.

Why Moisture Testing Is Non-Negotiable

Concrete and screed naturally release moisture as they cure. If you install flooring before the substrate has reached safe moisture levels, the trapped moisture will migrate into the adhesive and the vinyl, creating major problems down the line.

We also often see moisture issues resulting from poorly sealed windows and doors (the infamous sliding door problem), and through ingress from leaking pipes or standing water on external walls. This really comes to the fore in the rainy season, when even the most robust sliding door gets pushed to its breaking point.

The rule of thumb:

  • Below 4 CM% (carbide method) → moisture is considered manageable.
  • Above 4 CM% → you need a stronger system to block high vapour emissions.

This is where the right moisture barrier system comes in.

Our Two Go-To Moisture Barrier Products

We recommend two trusted solutions for moisture protection under glue down vinyl flooring:

1. Wakol PU 280 – For Moisture Levels Above 4 CM% and Below 6 CM%

Wakol PU 280 is a high-performance polyurethane primer that acts as both a moisture barrier and a bonding agent. If applied with one coat it can be highly valuable to strengthen a screed and block against interactions with old adhesives and is suitable for a moisture reading of up to 4.5 CM%. Anything higher yet under 6 CM% will require two coats.

How to Apply Wakol PU 280:

  1. Prepare the substrate by grinding or vacuuming to remove dust and contaminants.
  2. Apply two coats Wakol PU 280 evenly using a roller or brush, each coat at right angles to each other. You can stop at one coat for moisture levels below 4.5 CM%.
  3. Allow it to dry (usually 40–60 minutes depending on site conditions).
  4. Once cured, you still need to apply a slurry coat before you screed, so that you ensure a chemical bond with the screed.

Key Benefits of Wakol PU 280:

  • Blocks residual moisture up between 4 and 6 CM%.
  • Enhances adhesive bond strength.
  • Fast-drying and easy to apply.
  • No further mixing required – just open and use.
  • Transparent finish allows you to still see the substrate surface.

2. Tal VaporStop – For Moisture Levels Above 6 CM%

When substrate moisture is higher than 6 CM%, Tal VaporStop is our go-to solution. It’s a two-part epoxy-based moisture barrier designed for heavy-duty performance and is a fail-safe solution for ANY level of moisture. As a rule of thumb, apply one coat at 250micron for new builds or residual moisture issues related thereto. Apply two coats for moisture issues on existing builds or where you are dealing with variable moisture issues.

How to Apply Tal VaporStop:

  1. Ensure substrate is sound, clean, and free from laitance or weak spots.
  2. Mix components thoroughly (Tal VaporStop is a two-part system combined with Tal Primer Aggregate #2, a refined aggregate sand, as a third component).
  3. Get your setup organised as you will need to work quickly applying the product due to pot life of the product of about 30 minutes.  
  4. Apply the first coat at the required thickness using a heavy-duty squeegee, working evenly across the floor. Allow the product to sufficiently cure, about one day. Skip to the next step if only one coat is being applied.
  5. Apply the second coat as before, and disperse Tal Primer Aggregate #2 across the surface, which provides a mechanical key for the screed at a rate of approximately 200 to 250g/m2.
  6. Once cured sufficiently for screeding (usually one day), remove the excess sand and the surface is then ready for a self-levelling compound or adhesive. No slurry is required.

Key Benefits of Tal VaporStop:

  • Handles high moisture levels above 4 CM%.
  • Creates an impermeable epoxy barrier against rising damp.
  • Extremely durable and chemical-resistant.
  • Suitable for areas with ongoing high vapour pressure.
  • Using a refined aggregate like Tal Primer Aggregate #2 provides a mechanical key for the screed which is stronger than only a chemical key.
  • Number one solution to keep your tight deadline on track when moisture issues arise.

Choosing the Right Moisture Barrier

  • If your moisture readings are between 4 and 6 CM% → Wakol PU 280 is fast, efficient, and cost-effective.
  • If your readings are above 4 CM% → Tal VaporStop gives you the peace of mind of a heavy-duty epoxy system.

Final Thoughts

Skipping moisture testing before installing glue down vinyl flooring is a gamble that can cost you in repairs, callbacks, and unhappy clients. By testing your substrate and choosing the right moisture barrier—whether Wakol PU 280 for lower readings or Tal VaporStop for higher ones—you set the foundation for a long-lasting, beautiful vinyl flooring installation.

 

Disclaimer: always refer to the manufacturer’s technical specifications and application documentation as your reference.

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Wakol PU 280 | Moisture Barrier

Price range: R2,484.00 through R4,485.00

Tal VaporStop | Moisture Barrier

Price range: R1,906.05 through R4,841.93

VaporiTe+Plus | Moisture Barrier

R1,346.57
Introducing BerryAlloc Parqwood: Premium Engineered Veneer Flooring Now Available
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We are excited to announce the launch of the BerryAlloc Parqwood range in South Africa – now available in both XXL Long planks and classic Herringbone patterns. Designed to deliver premium quality, timeless aesthetics and exceptional value, Parqwood is the perfect choice for a durable and versatile engineered flooring solution.

What Makes Parqwood Different?

The Parqwood collection is a veneer engineered wood floor, crafted to combine the natural beauty of real wood with the strength and stability of engineered construction. In this veneer collection, a 0.6mm real oak veneer is bonded to an HDF core and spruce backing, with an easy to use click system.

Key characteristics include:

  • XXL Long Planks – Wide and extra-long boards create a seamless, contemporary look, ideal for open-plan homes and commercial spaces (210 x 2200 x 10 mm).

  • Herringbone Design – Classic, geometric appeal for customers who want a statement floor with timeless character (84 x 504 x 9.5 mm).

  • Veneer Surface Technology – The authentic wood veneer gives the natural beauty of timber with a more sustainable use of raw materials for the core. It also allows the floor to be more robust against indentations and surface damage due to the saturation of the oak veneer pores with coatings and immediate support of the core.

  • Sustainable Core – Stable construction ensures less movement from humidity or temperature changes, reducing callbacks and long-term issues. The high density of the HDF core enhances heat transmission when used with underfloor heating and absorbs and reduces noise due to its mass effect (875 kg/m³).

  • Flexible Installation Options – Can be installed as a floating floor over underlay or glued down for extra stability, giving contractors and clients choice. The spruce backing is scored to enhance adhesion for a glue down installation.

  • Quality Manufacturing – Made in France for the single planks and in Belgium for herringbone, a symbol for know-how, sustainability and traceability. Has extraordinary strength through tried-and-true BerryAlloc innovations such as Ultimtec – a solvent-free, ultra-resistant and extra-matt varnish; and a locking system that’s extra-easy to install. The high impact resistance linked to the high density fiberboard core and the high abrasion resistance of the Ultimtec lacquer confers a very high strength to the floor.

Value for Your Project

Parqwood offers homeowners and commercial clients a high-end wood aesthetic at a more accessible price point. Thanks to its efficient veneer construction it has some attributes that far exceed standard engineered flooring attributes. This means you can deliver the look and feel of luxury engineered wood flooring while keeping budgets competitive – an important advantage in today’s market.

Launch Special Offer

To celebrate the launch of BerryAlloc Parqwood, we are offering free IXPE underlay for floating installations. If you’re installing Parqwood as a glue-down floor, you’ll receive a voucher equivalent discounting your Wakol MS 228 adhesive – one of the most reliable solutions for professional wood flooring installations.

This special offer ensures that whichever installation method you or your client prefers, you’re set up with the right products to deliver a flawless finish.

Why Choose BerryAlloc Parqwood?

With its unique blend of modern design, proven performance, and excellent value, Parqwood stands out as a smart addition to your flooring portfolio or for your project. Whether your client wants a bold XXL plank statement or the timeless sophistication of herringbone, Parqwood delivers – backed by BerryAlloc’s global reputation for quality.

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Albatre Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 9.5 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,800.00.Current price is: R1,242.00. per m2
-31%

Silk Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 9.5 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,800.00.Current price is: R1,242.00. per m2
-31%

Nature Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 10/0.6 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,282.48.Current price is: R884.92. per m2
-31%

Silk Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 10/0.6 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,282.48.Current price is: R884.92. per m2
-31%

Nude Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 10/0.6 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,282.48.Current price is: R884.92. per m2
-31%

Ambre Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 9.5 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,800.00.Current price is: R1,242.00. per m2
-31%

Nude Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 9.5 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,800.00.Current price is: R1,242.00. per m2
-31%

Nature Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 9.5 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,800.00.Current price is: R1,242.00. per m2
-31%

Ambre Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 10/0.6 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,282.48.Current price is: R884.92. per m2
-31%

Albatre Calm Veneer Engineered Flooring 10/0.6 | Berry Alloc Parqwood...

Original price was: R1,282.48.Current price is: R884.92. per m2
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Why Polymer (HDPS) Skirtings Are the Smart Choice for Your Flooring Finish
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When it comes to the perfect flooring finish, skirtings often don’t get the spotlight they deserve. Yet, they make all the difference in giving a room a polished, professional look. While timber skirtings have long been a go-to, modern polymer (HDPS) skirtings are quickly becoming the preferred option — and for good reason.

Polymer skirtings — also known as High-Density Polystyrene (HDPS) skirtings — are modern mouldings made from a lightweight yet extremely durable synthetic material. 

Why Choose Polymer (HDPS) Over Timber Skirtings?

  1. Moisture-Resistant
    HDPS skirtings are made from high-density polymer, which means they won’t warp, swell or rot when exposed to moisture — unlike timber. This makes them perfect for kitchens, bathrooms, and coastal homes.

  2. Durable and Impact-Resistant
    Everyday knocks from furniture, vacuums, or foot traffic are no match for HDPS skirtings. Their resilience ensures they look great for years without denting or chipping as easily as wood.

  3. Low Maintenance
    With no need for sanding, sealing, or regular repainting, polymer skirtings are virtually maintenance-free. A quick wipe is all it takes to keep them looking fresh.

  4. Perfect Paint Finish
    Many HDPS skirtings are paintable, so you can customise them to match your décor perfectly — whether you prefer crisp white, subtle neutrals, or bold contrasts.

  5. Cost-Effective in the Long Run
    While initial prices may be comparable to timber, the reduced maintenance and replacement costs make HDPS skirtings a smart investment.

Now Available: Supreme Mouldings HDPS Skirtings, Quarter Rounds & Scotia

We’re excited to announce that the Supreme Mouldings range of locally manufactured HDPS skirtings, quarter rounds, and scotia is now available on our website. This premium collection offers a wide selection of profiles and sizes to suit every flooring style, from contemporary minimalism to classic elegance. And note the chamfer at the bottom/back of these skirtings. This takes the headache out of uneven wall bases plus lets you hide unsightly cables behind the skirting. 

Ultra Mount is the recommended specialist adhesive for your polymer skirtings and beadings, delivering excellent grip and durability. This solvent-free adhesive is easy to apply, offering high initial tack and a flexible, long-lasting bond suitable for a variety of interior surfaces.

Whether you’re finishing off a laminate, vinyl, or engineered wood floor, you’ll find the perfect match in the Supreme Mouldings range — all designed for easy installation and a flawless look.

Why Buying South African-Made Matters

Choosing locally manufactured skirtings isn’t just a practical decision — it’s a meaningful one:

  • Supports Local Jobs & Economy – Every purchase helps sustain South African manufacturing jobs and keeps skills development in the country.

  • Shorter Lead Times – Local stock means faster availability, without the long waits for imported products.

  • Lower Carbon Footprint – Reduced shipping distances help minimise environmental impact.

  • Quality You Can Trust – Supreme Mouldings is a trusted South African brand known for consistent quality and innovation.

  • Cost Effective – when compared to imported European brands, locally made Supreme Mouldings products offer a great result at a very cost-effective price.

The Finishing Touch Your Floors Deserve

Your flooring is only as good as its finish, and with Supreme Mouldings HDPS skirtings, you get style, durability, and local quality all in one. Explore our full range of HDPS skirtings, quarter rounds, and scotia now available online — and give your floors the perfect final touch.

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Navigating Bitumen for a Successful Glue Down Vinyl Installation – When Parquet Flooring’s Past Haunts the Present
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Bitumen. It’s the ghost of floor installations past—especially in older South African homes with a legacy of parquet flooring, known locally as ‘blokkies’ flooring. At Floor Mechanics, we recently tackled a prime example of how this outdated adhesive method can derail even the best-laid renovation plans without the right expertise.

The Surprise Below: Residual Bitumen from Old Parquet Flooring

Our team was contracted for a full-home floor installation of luxury vinyl planks (LVP), using a glue down vinyl method. The existing 1980s carpet was to be removed, and the substrate prepped for the new finish.

Once the carpet was lifted, we discovered extensive bitumen contamination throughout the substrate. This black, oily residue was the remnant of a previous parquet flooring installation—most likely Zimbabwean Teak tiles—glued down decades ago using bitumen, a common practice in the Western Cape.

Bitumen was once prized for its strength and durability as an adhesive. But in today’s flooring world, it’s a major headache, especially given that there are more (better) solutions. Especially when preparing a surface for modern glue down vinyl flooring, bitumen can severely interfere with the bonding of primers, screeds, and adhesives.

The Risk: Why Bitumen is a Problem for Floor Installation

Standard primers and self-leveling screeds don’t adhere well to bitumen-contaminated surfaces. Worse, some installers try shortcuts—chipping at the surface to give new materials something to grip. We’ve seen the aftermath of these shortcuts: delaminated floors, adhesive failures, and expensive repairs.

That’s why knowing how to remove bitumen or how to treat it properly is critical to a successful and lasting floor installation. And if you have a blokkies floor, be prepared to deal with some remedial and extra cost that will most likely be required.

Our Solution: Grinding and Priming for Long-Term Stability

There are two ways you can approach a bitumen issue. The first is to mechanically grind it all off using a scarifier and other such tools. This is intense and time-consuming, yet once done resets the datum and you would proceed with screed prep as usual.

The second option, our preferred approach, is mechanical grinding coupled with a primer. You remove the top layer of bitumen contamination down to the stained but sound topping beneath. You want to get rid of the crumbly residue. If the substrate remains structurally stable, you don’t need to remove the topping entirely.

Next, you apply Tal Bitumen Primer—a two-part, hand-troweled product specifically engineered to bond cementitious surfaces contaminated with bitumen. While it adds cost to the preparation phase, it guarantees long-term success for the installation.

Once the primer sets, you finish the floor preparation with a standard self-leveling screed, creating the perfect base for your glue down vinyl planks.

Key Insight: Shortcuts Come Back to Bite

When it comes to parquet flooring and bitumen, the correct approach with the right tools and products will save you time and money down the line. For clients, your flooring investment will last into the future. For installers, your reputation and risk can be protected. Just take a look at the short video clip below on another project recently where a previous vinyl installation was done over bitumen without the right approach, and our client had to pay the price. Check out how that screed has completely delaminated from the bitumen layer!

We see this time and again, so please approach this flooring type well informed and ready to do the right thing.

 

Screed Delaminated from Bitumen

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Tal Bitumen Primer | Substrate Preparation

Original price was: R1,024.80.Current price is: R982.03.
Tal Bitumen Primer is a two-component (2K) polymermodified primer for surfaces contaminated with old bitumen traditionally encountered in the fixing of vinyl tiles. Once cured, Tal Bitumen Primer offers a surface onto which most cement-based Under and Overlayments can be applied. It is also suitable for application over Contact Adhesive residues. Read the technical specification document for more detailed product information.
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So what is a reducer? We use a reduce in the flooring industry to transition a floor from one height to another height. It’s called by many different names from different suppliers, but basically it is a trim that will either finish or start your floor, and it transitions from a high to a low or a low to a high.

Obviously, you can use it in reverse as you explore your flooring installation and your project. You might need to transition from a high tile or a carpet, or finishing off against a sliding door, or transitioning down to an existing old floor so you’re building up the floor level are placed in your laminate or engineered or new floor type on top of the existing.

So we need to transition down to the old floor type. So that’s where we would use this. These trims are installed in different ways depending on the type that you choose. This is a peel and stick. So you basically just peel it back and you stick it down in place. Or you can get a dowel option which basically the trim has a track down the centre and you just slide in your plug screw and you will drill a hole and fix it accordingly.

The number one rule to remember when you’re installing any trim, especially on a floating floor, meaning a floor that is just sitting on top, it’s not bonded to the substrate, is that the floor still needs to be able to move. So if we are installing against a tiled floor and we have a floating floor, the trim can be properly bonded to the tile, but it cannot be bonded to the floating floor because the floating floor still wants to be able to move around.

So we need to be very careful when we are gluing these trims down. If we gluing them down or fixing them down, that we don’t impede the natural expansion contraction movement of the floating floor if we do this, we can void our warranty and cause our floor to possibly fail. With these trims, we have quite a few different varieties.

Okay, so obviously I’ve been talking about the aluminium trim. This is the aluminium trim that can either be installed with a peel and stick or it can be installed with the dowel. The dowel system that locks in place. And these are some of the most popular types we have in the marketplace currently. From there, if we’re dealing with laminates, a very traditional format in the laminate market is these are made from medium density fibreboard or high density fibreboard.

And they are the same material used to construct laminate, but they are actually wrapped with a colour matching or complimentary decor paper with the built in anti-scratch layer. We then also have in the marketplace, and these are a little bit more custom, which these are solid trims made out of a solid hardwood or bamboo. And these are made out of the same material, but they are a lot chunkier.

And we need to be careful how they aesthetically add or potentially detract from the main floor time. The aluminium trims have come a long way in being highly anti-scratch, low profile and very easy to install.

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Why is a flooring warranty so important? So many of these products have residential and commercial warranties and there is a lot of information out there that can be quite confusing.

Firstly, it’s about the manufacturer trying to safeguard the consumer’s installation and experience of their floor, and they’ve got a very strict set of requirements of how the floor gets installed to safeguard your investment.

So whether you fill out that little registration card or not about a manufacturing defect, which they will then honor. It’s also about setting the controls that the installation is correct and they’re guiding you through the steps on how to achieve that.

Reading the installation instructions, care maintenance, is absolutely paramount in safeguarding your investment. So it’s not just about having a recourse with the manufacturer if something goes wrong, which I find as a professional in the industry is actually quite rare.

Majority of floor failures come about through incorrect maintenance and installation, and if we follow the warranty parameters, the installation parameters, we’re going to safeguard our investment. So it’s up to every consumer to make sure that they are aware of what the requirements are. And don’t just rely on that individual who’s doing the installation and laying the planks. Make sure you know what’s going on, because that’s how you get to safeguard your investment.

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Why do we include cut in wastage on a flooring installation quote? This is an essential component for when we are calculating how much material we need to install. If you’ve got 100m² of floor or actual space that you want flooring installed therein, we need to actually allow for extra material. And industry standard for normal planked floor is roughly around about 10%.

You can reduce this if it’s a bigger area or if it’s a smaller area. Unfortunately you will have to include 10% or maybe a little bit more if you’re installing a technical like chevron or herringbone. We’ll have to increase this cutting in wastage to between 15 and 20%, depending on the complexity of the pattern. This is an essential component for every quote.

But please remember the installation component is based on the actual square meters you install and mustn’t charge you for the inflated volume of square meters. So your actual square meter plus your cutting wastage. They can’t charge you for that extra 10%. They can only charge you to install the actual squares, taking this extra 10% into account. If you do happen to have a few planks or boxes left over at the end of your project. Don’t worry, this is great attic stock which you can save. And if you do happen to need to do any repairs at a later date, you have spare material of the same die batch of the same production date which is going to make the repair beautiful and seamless. It’s a lot harder to now in weeks, months or years to come, to try and find a couple of spare planks which can cause a much bigger headache.

So in conclusion, when you’re trying to work out how many square meters you need for your project, measure the area length times breadth of the entire area where you want a new floor, and add 10% if it’s a normal installation, planked floor. That is how you’re going to get to an accurate number of the material you need for your project.